GUCCI CRUISE 2018

I'm going back on my word regarding waffly, verbose fashion prose for a quick second. Let me preface this by saying that I love Gucci but damn, Alessandro, did you have to do Dapper Dan like that?

These days, fashion shows are more than just the product. It's the location, the atmosphere and how the designer is able to convey their vision through every sensory experience possible. The Gucci Cruise 2018 show was held in the Palatine Gallery of the Palazzo Pitti in the brand's home city of Florence, Italy, with a the collection reflected modern interpretations of civilizations past. Cloaked in a thick veil of classical Renaissance, we saw references to Ancient Greece, Rome...............and the Dapper Dan rip.

If you're into hiphop and modern fashion culture, you will know that Dapper Dan was that guy. A couturier from Harlem, New York, who dressed the black stars of music and sports in customised "bootleg" when high end, luxury brands wouldn't even entertain the idea continued until he was forced to close his business in 1992. To get a better idea, watch Sacha Jenkins' documentary Fresh Dressed (trailer at the very).

You know, it's not news that fashion and the mainstream draw references from black culture (Miley, what's good?) but this hit me a little harder than usual. On one hand, I'm stoked. Dapper Dan's still shining 25 years later. On the other hand, I'm vexed like someone just stole food off my plate.

Was the question of a collaboration completely off the table? Have we already forgotten that a month ago, we were "celebrating" diversity by using only black models in the Spring 2017 campaign, using all black models (I was hoodwinked for a second, but only one second, mind) and "referencing" (cope + pasting) Malik Sidibe's now iconic docu-style photography.

Photo by Malik Sidibe

Photo by Malik Sidibe

Image from the Gucci Spring 2017 Campaign

Image from the Gucci Spring 2017 Campaign

Look, all I'm saying is that Dan better have received some credit in the footnotes at least and, Lallo, if you need a heads up on how to do it, please see Marc Jacobs FW17 show. 

In any case, here are my thoughts on the Gucci Cruise collection!

 

Update - 01/06/17Gucci responded to accusations of plagiarism, claiming that the jacket was an "homage" to Dapper Dan. I mean, it's possible but I don't buy it. And even if that is the case, congratulations Gucci. You still played yourself.